Shoe Maker

The girth is the measurement around an object. When measuring a last you need to know the Ball Girth, Instep Girth and Heel Girth.

A fabric or paper board sheet used to make the bottom of the shoe upper.

Butadiene (Polymer) Synthetic rubber made from petro chemicals Rubber SBR1502

Styrene-butadiene (Polymer) a common ingredient in synthetic rubber.

Traditionally called ‘clicking’ or “clicker cutting) is simply the cutting of shoe materials. There is an art to cutting leather due to the nature of the materials’ grain. The cutting is made by a cutting die.

Double lasting is when a single shoe undergoes two lasting operations during assembly. The lasting operations maybe to pull a leather lining tight with no wrinkles or to pull a water proofing lining tight. The second lasting operation would be the shoe upper. Double lasting is often used to “hide” a molded foam midsole inside the shoe.

☛ Quarter Lining horseshoe shape around back part of shoe

☛ Vamp Lining inside upper of forepart and toe of shoe

☛ Sock Lining covering all OR part of the top surface of the insole.

Internal or external, the heel counter is the pattern part that covers the heel of the shoe. The internal heel counter can be made of rubber (for vulcanized shoes), thermo plastic (for cold cement shoes), chemi-sheet (for really cheap shoes), or leather for dress shoes. Depending on the shoe type the counter can be thin and soft or stiff and sturdy.

The Shoe Design Brief contains all the critical information for the footwear designer. Information like, who is this shoe for? What sport is the shoe designed for? What price is planned for the finished item? For What country? A detailed design brief will contain much of the information the shoe designer will need to get started.

She prefers to wear an ankle boot than a high boot.

footwear that covers the whole foot and ankle

To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper. The shoe factory will use a metal or stone wheel.

The line in an outsole mold is made by the closing edges of the tooling. The tooling is split at the parting line. A mold may have one or 2 parting planes. Extra rubber may spread out of the parting line, this will be need to be trimmed off. A narrow tight parting line or parting plane is a sign of quality tooling.

The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support. Will be made of EVA or PU foam.

The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board. A lasting margin may be 15 to 20 mm wide.

The shoe heel stabilizer is can be rubber, plastic or leather. The stabilizer is bonded to the upper and midsole on the outside of the shoe as a functional and style part. Very common on the classic cut and buff style midsole type.

Ethylene vinyl acetate is the copolymer of ethylene and vinyl acetate. The weight percent vinyl acetate usually varies from 10 to 40%, with the remainder being ethylene. The most common foam used for shoe cushioning. EVA can be hot pressed or cold pressed, can be made in any color, in a range of hardnesses. This material can also be made by injection. EVA is the most common midsole padding but is also used in shoe uppers.

Usually binding is made of the same material as the material of the upper.

strip sewn over or along an edge for reinforcement or decoration

Shoe cement is usually solvent or water based PU contact cement. Each part is coated with the cement and allowed to dry. The surfaces are then pressed together. Pressing is critical for a good bond. The PU cement cures in minutes, but a full cure may take days.

Usually made of Nylon webbing. A very common way to attached laces also called a ghilly loop. This style can be sewn under the eye stay to make a hidden lace loop

Pantone Inc. is a corporation headquartered in Carlstadt, New Jersey. The company is best known for its Pantone Matching System (PMS), a proprietary color space used in a variety of industries, primarily printing, though sometimes in the manufacture of colored paint, fabric, and plastics. It’s the only way to make sure your colors match.

Those clients bought fashioned shoes.

planned and made or designed artistically